Drip. Drip. Drip. A faucet leaking just one drop per second wastes more than 3,000 gallons of water a year, according to the EPA — and it only gets worse as parts wear further. The good news: most leaky faucets are fixed with a $5–$15 part and basic hand tools. This guide covers sink faucets and bathtub faucets, compression and cartridge types alike.
Step 1: Identify your faucet type
Repairs differ by mechanism, so identify yours first:
- Compression (two-handle, washer-type): separate hot and cold handles that you tighten down to shut off. Inside each handle is a stem with a rubber washer pressed against a metal valve seat. The washer wears out — this is the classic drippy faucet.
- Cartridge (single-handle or two-handle, washerless): a self-contained cartridge controls flow. When it wears or cracks, you replace the whole cartridge with one matching your faucet’s brand and model.
- Ball (single-handle, common in kitchens): a rotating ball with chambers, plus spring-loaded rubber seats and seals. Leaks usually mean worn springs and seats.
- Disc (single-handle, lever over a wide body): two ceramic discs slide against each other. Very durable; leaks are rare and usually fixed with a seal kit.
Step 2: Tools and shutoff
You’ll generally need: Allen wrenches, adjustable wrench or channel-lock pliers, flathead and Phillips screwdrivers, needle-nose pliers, and the replacement parts (take the old ones to the store to match exactly — even tiny size differences cause leaks). A cartridge puller helps with stubborn cartridges.
Shut off the water first. For sink faucets, close the two fixture valves under the sink by turning them clockwise. Bathtubs usually have no fixture valves — shut off the house main instead. Open the faucet to release pressure and drain remaining water, and plug the drain (sink) or lay a towel over it (tub) so small screws don’t vanish.
Fixing a leaky sink faucet: compression type
- Remove the handle: pry off the decorative cap, unscrew the handle screw, and lift the handle off.
- Unscrew the packing nut with a wrench and pull out the stem.
- Inspect the O-ring around the stem — if cracked or flattened, replace it.
- At the stem’s base, remove the small screw holding the seat washer, discard the worn washer, and install an exact-match replacement.
- Reassemble, turn the water back on, and check for drips.
Fixing a leaky sink faucet: cartridge type
- Remove the handle (usually a hex set screw at the back or base — use the right Allen key).
- Remove the retaining nut with pliers (counterclockwise to loosen).
- Pull the cartridge straight out with needle-nose pliers or a cartridge puller. Note its orientation.
- Insert the new matching cartridge in the same orientation, reinstall the nut and handle.
- Restore water and test.
Fixing a leaky sink faucet: ball type
- Loosen the set screw and remove the handle, then unscrew the cap with adjustable pliers (protect the finish with a cloth).
- Remove the cam, packing, and ball assembly to expose the valve seats and springs.
- Replace the seats and springs with a repair kit for your faucet model.
- Reassemble and test.
Fixing a leaky two-handle bathtub faucet
Tub and shower faucets almost always leak from a worn stem washer (two-handle) or cartridge (single-handle).
- Find which side leaks: feel the drip’s temperature — warm means the hot side, cold means the cold side. If you can’t tell, repair both.
- Shut off the house main, open both tub faucets to relieve pressure, and cover the drain.
- Pry off the handle cap, remove the handle screw, and pull the handle off.
- Remove the escutcheon (the decorative trim plate).
- Loosen the brass bonnet nut with an adjustable wrench and pull out the stem assembly.
- Remove the screw holding the rubber washer at the stem’s end, discard the washer, and install a new one (reuse or replace the screw).
- Inspect the valve seat with a flashlight — the brass ring the washer presses against. If it’s pitted or corroded, unscrew it with a seat wrench and install a new one; a new washer on a damaged seat will leak again within weeks.
- Reassemble in reverse order, turn the main back on, and check for leaks.
Fixing a leaky single-handle bathtub faucet
- Shut off the house main and relieve pressure as above.
- Remove the handle: pry off the cover cap (round knobs) or loosen the recessed Allen screw (lever handles), then pull the handle off.
- Unscrew and remove the escutcheon trim plate.
- Pull the U-shaped retainer clip with needle-nose pliers — don’t drop it into the wall cavity.
- Pull the old cartridge straight out (a cartridge puller helps if it’s stuck).
- Push the new brand-and-model-matched cartridge in, reinstall the clip, trim, and handle.
- Turn the water on and check for leaks, including behind the wall with a flashlight.
Overnight hacks for the dripping sound
These don’t fix anything, but they’ll buy you sleep until morning: fill the tub with a few inches of water plus a squirt of dish soap (changed surface tension quiets the drip), tie a long sock or washcloth around the spout so water runs silently down it, or lay a folded towel under the drip.
FAQ
Can a leaky faucet fix itself?
No — worn washers, seats, and cartridges only deteriorate further. Fix it promptly to stop the water waste.
Why does my shower head leak when the tub faucet drips?
The tub spout and shower share a valve. If the diverter is set to shower, a failing valve leaks through the shower head instead of the spout. Repair the valve the same way.
Why does my faucet still drip after I replaced the washer?
The valve seat is likely damaged. Replace the seat (see step 7 of the two-handle tub repair) — a new washer can’t seal against a pitted seat.
When to get help
If the shutoff valves are frozen or broken, the cartridge won’t budge, or a faucet still leaks after new parts and a new seat, the valve body itself may be damaged — time for professional repair or replacement.
America’s Service Plumber is a free matching service. We’ll connect you with licensed local plumbers in your area for free quotes on faucet repair and replacement — no obligation. Get a free quote.
